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Thursday, April 7, 2011

MARMALADE A L’OGNION

Some of the most flavorful dishes are incredibly easy.  A Caprese salad only has three ingredients: sliced tomato, sliced buffalo mozzarella and basil leaves (which you then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil – evoo – and a bit of balsamic vinegar,  salt and pepper).  A fantastic tapenade consists of pitted olives, evoo, garlic and salt milled into a paste.  Hummus is another perfect example: chickpeas, lemon juice, garlic and evoo.
Here is a flavorful side dish or condiment in that same style – an onion marmalade.  Don’t let it scare you – all it requires is really good onions, a bit of oil, a dash of salt, thyme and some patience.  I was given a huge bag-full of lovely organic onions by my neighbor – from her mother’s farm.  We’re grilling steaks, roasting potatoes, there’s an arugula salad with my go-to salad dressing and I didn’t want this lovely gift to go bad on the counter.  First order of business was to peel off the outer skins and root ends.  Rinse off any dirt, then begin to slice them all nice and even.  Go slow as you slice, it’s not a race, don’t put stress into the pan and don’t lose any fingers.  Remember: dull knives cut fingers.
I had a total of 12 onions – it sounds like a lot, but the slow cooking process will reduce them considerably.  As they reduce, the flavor will become very concentrated: YUM!
Throw the slices into a large wide pan with a tight-fitting lid.  The bottom of the pan should have 1 tablespoon of evoo, and another one of safflower oil (or another flavorless oil) because it withstands higher heat, is flavorless and will actually enhance the olive oil's heat resistance for the process.  I’m also going to grab some thyme from my garden (2-3 sprigs) though 1 tablespoon of dry thyme, crushed between your fingers to release the flavor will work almost as well.  Add a tablespoon of sea salt (over 1.5 lbs of onions – the salt will help them go sweet as they cook slow).
Initially I start them on the highest heat – I also want to separate all the layers and coat everything thoroughly with the oil, salt, and thyme.  I use a wooden spatula for this.  Then, as they begin to get glossy, I’ll put the lid on it and bring the heat down to med for 15 minutes.  Note: If it’s an electric stove, switch burners so you don’t burn the bottom (burned onions are not what you’re trying for).

As they begin to brown, give it all a good stir and take the lid off, but hold your horses and allow the flavors to develop.  Every few minutes you can walk by and stir it until it begins to caramelize.  In my kitchen (because of the humidity in S. Florida, my gas stove, etc.) it took 45 minutes.  It might be less in yours – but this is what you’re going for: slightly golden, slightly sweet and very flavorful!
If you’re concerned about the oil, separate the solids, decant into a dish and serve as a condiment to a great grilled steak, lamb, chicken or pork.  Enjoy this little trip from the South of France, to my kitchen, to your table.
Let me know how yours turns out!  Mine was so good it stood up to a hearty glass of Bordeaux on whole wheat bread.  Ah!  Provence!
This simple dish is chock-full of flavor.  Enjoy!