UMBRIA

This November, I spent the month of November in Umbria in Central Italy.  There, fresh fruit and vegetables, simple ingredients and fresh pastas are a way of life.  Everything is so good, and thoroughly satisfying, that you really don’t need to overdo it.

As I stared out over Lake Tasimeno (the third largest lake in Italy), seeing the fall harvest all around, I was profoundly inspired.  At night, I looked up at the stars glittering in a clear sky and knew that we’re all in this alone, and we’re all in this together…. food is a bridge.

I’ve been told Rappa a cousin of horseradish…? (Please weigh in)…..

Rappa, and Agnolotti alla Panna

Rappa (also known as Rappini, or Broccoli Rob) was being harvested in November throughout Umbria and Tuscany. 

Here in the States it’s found at most grocers.  It resembles normal broccoli but the flavor is ten times more powerful (like broccoli on steroids).  Since they can be sandy, wash them thoroughly.  Cut them tips on an angle and arrange in a large pot garland-style. 

Rappa can be bitter, so here’s an unexpected solution:  A tea bag goes into the pot – the tannin in the tea will draw out the bitterness.  Also, add in a sprinkle of good kosher salt (or sea salt), and then sprinkle in some fresh ground nutmeg.  The result is a delightful richness and they are bright instead of bitter. 

HERE’S A TIP:  The same can be done for Brussels sprouts – it makes them taste nutty and buttery – no bitterness at all.

Only about ½ an inch to ¾ inch of water goes in the bottom of the pot.  We’re only interested in wilting them.  Cover and bring to a boil.  Take the greens out as soon as they wilt (don’t start texting, or watching TV, they’ll turn grey and die – we don’t want that). 

As soon as they wilt, get them off the fire.  Set them and serve onto a platter.  Make it look decorative and appetizing, I use my handy dandy tongs (very expensive utensil – stainless steel from the dollar store) – it keeps you from getting burned.  Allow them to cool. 

SAVE THE BOILING BROTH.

If you made a big batch (the best thing to do when cooking for 1 is to cook in big batches), only drizzle a bit of EVOO (extra virgin olive oil – preferably cold pressed) with a sprinkle of salt to the bunch that’s going onto your plate.  These tasty greens are the perfect accompaniment to a baked chicken breast, or fresh snapper fillet.

While these cool, we’ll tackle the first course in this Umbrian inspired meal, pasta alla panna. 

PRIVATE NOTE: If it’s a very special occasion, I have sometimes made my own fresh pasta – however, the fresh pastas I’m finding in our regular groceries has become so good, that it’s hardly worth the trouble.  I’d still advise against frozen or dry pasta for this dish.  The pasta has to be good for this to shine.

I found these amazing freshly made agnolotti (they’re a crescent shaped type of ravioli) stuffed with a fragrant wild mushroom filling.  This will be the only starch needed for the meal.

Our pot is already filled with this still hot, very intensely flavored broth.  Bring it up to a rolling boil and add the agnolotti. Fresh pasta always cooks very fast and needs very few ingredients for a true Umbrian or Tuscan style sauce.

Here in the States, we’ve been taught to serve pasta swimming in sauce.  In Central Italy the pasta only needs to be moistened with rich flavor. 

Let’s make the sauce for these gorgeous crescents while the broth comes back to a full boil: 1 tablespoon of cold pressed olive oil, 2 cloves of sweetened garlic, 2 pinches of kosher salt – make a paste of this by throwing it into a mortar and pestle (another very expensive tool I found at the dollar store).  This takes a minute and makes a flavorful paste (see my post on sweetened garlic).  Scrape it into a mixing bowl. 

Next, ad a splash of half-n-half and a couple of turns on the parmesan grater.  See below:

                                          1 tablespoon of garlic paste.  Yumm.

                                         Just a splash of half n half + some parmesan

Drain the pasta (you can save the broth by simply fishing them out with a slotted spoon, or toss it, it’s done its job).  The chef must always taste one.

See, there’s just a bit of “moisture” on the pasta.  OMG – it’s scrumptious.  The combination of the elements is TD4.  I think I’ll allow myself one more.  MMMM!

One more can't hurt.... they're THAT good.

Oops! Unexpectedly, because the chef tasted so many, I was only able to serve three each to my 2 unannounced and unexpected dinner guests. They were awesome!  A first course should leave you wanting more…

Note: Though this is a delicious first course, it is low in fat, low in salt and you can make it even lighter: substitute light or fat-free sour cream for the half n half – but then, it’s just 1 teaspoon of it, and whisk the garlic paste and light cream together with the cheese before throwing in the hot pasta). 

Eating alone and want to have fewer dishes to wash?  No problem, slice up the rappa, mix it into the the agnolotti alla panna, serve it just like that as a single vegetarian course or add an accompanying protein (baked chicken, fish, etc.), and viola - a very complete central Italian meal.  

The full menu would include a fresh salad with a light vinaigrette (always served after the meat dish in Umbria), and then some fresh fruit (with cheese).  You might feel like you went off to Florence.

January 2011

PS DIET NOTE

If you’re eating alone in front of the TV or a computer screen, you’re going to be eating in an unconscious manner.  It’s also more likely that you’ll overeat, and eat too fast.

Take the time to savor it.  Set yourself a nice table.  Nourish and reward yourself by eating on the good china.  It changes how you interact with the food.

I took this photo of the dining room in the Queen of England’s summer palace – ours doesn’t have to be that fancy, but you get the idea...

 

Does garlic repeat on you?

Here's a simple tip to help if garlic repeats on you.... sweeten it!
Take a few cloves of unpeeled garlic and throw them into a small pan with a bit of water.  Set on high heat and boil for 5 minutes.  This makes the garlic very easy to peel + the sharp edge comes down and it won't cause you any more worries.  In fact, I think it actually adds a gentle depth to its flavor.

I usually do a few at a time, they'll keep a few days in the fridge and because it's a little softer from the heat, its perfect for my mortar and pestle.

To make a sensational sauce base, add a drizzle of good olive oil, a good pinch of Kosher or sea salt, a sweetened garlic clove or two and mash it up.  Let the pestle (the wooden handle) do the work.  In about a minute you have this awesome paste that you can add to any sauce.

Re-falling in love again.....

Early in my life, I’d had more than my share of heartbreak – I owned a restaurant... it can leave you feeling very wounded. 

It was the 80's and Cafe Montparnasse was located in Coral Gables, Florida

It was a French Bistro (we celebrated Bastille Day)

I worked so hard - I've never been skinnier.  My chef Eric at my side.

I must have mourned that breakup long enough because while I was in Umbria making risotto (with white wine and fresh herbs), falling in love with the Grechetto (an exquisite dry white local wine that gives every Pinot Grigio I’ve ever tasted a run for their money) and sampling the harvest fresh fruit and vegetables, I remembered something basic about myself:  I am now and have ALWAYS been a foodie.

Age 5 with my grandfather's dog Interpol

Here I am at age 5, living in Bogotá, Colombia where my Austrian father opened “El Refugio Alpino” (the Alpine Refuge, a very successful restaurant near downtown that specialized in Intercontinental cuisine).  My favorite things from the menu were:

1.           Scalding hot Borscht (hot like they serve it in Ukraine) with just a bit of crème fraiche;

2.           Escargots with crusty bread to douse up all the garlic butter (with Pernod, of course) which I’d share with my mother;

3.           Veal marsala or when they had them, frog legs Provencal, with potatoes dauphin; and last but certainly never least,

4.           Either Chocolate Mousse or Gateaux Lilly (a family secret I may share in another post) … or both!

All this at age 5! 

The view from my terrace - Lake Tasimeno in the Umbria region of Central Italy, Nov., 2010

In Umbria I finally came out of the foodie closet.  I do not eat for eating’s sake.  I dine.  I confess.  It's true.
For me, eating is a sensual, passionate pastime.  I should be fat. 
Thanks to some secrets I’ll share, plus some good genes, I’m not.  And here’s the kicker:  I like cooking almost as much as eating!
In here, I hope to infect you with a bit of my passion for food.  Perhaps I can inspire you.  I have years in both private and industrial kitchens.  I’ve learned some very cool tricks, shortcuts, and tips… these could transform your cooking life.... in fact, they may do more.  Join me on this journey - we'll do it together from my kitchen to your table!  I'll give you the "Cooking 4 1 1" - promise!

Paul