RISOTTO WTIH SAFFRON

Arborio rice, organic garlic, carrots, broccolini and half an onion



I’ve wanted to post a very typically Northern Italian risotto recipe for some time.  That’s why I bought saffron last week…. It’s a crowd pleaser and the kind of dish that takes 25 minutes from conception to completion.

The very first time I ever made a risotto was in my uncle Giulio’s kitchen under his supervision at age 17 in the town of Lurate-Caccivio in the shadow of the Alps and Lake Como.  It was summertime and I remember how I really sweated over that pot.  Since then I’ve learned a few tricks to sweat less.

Saffron consists of the dried stamen from flowers, I've also got a sprig of fresh oregano from my garden, a dried laurel leaf, whole nutmeg and some dry porcini mushrooms I found at an Italian market.

This is going to be presented as a deconstructed risotto primavera with saffron.  For richness I’m going to add some freshly ground nutmeg and I’ll slice up some dry porcini mushrooms.  Though the saffron is expensive, a little goes a long way, but there's nothing quite like it so don't even try to skimp on it... it's actually totally worth it.

I used my electric grinder to mince 1 clove of garlic, ¼ teaspoon of red pepper flakes and a half onion.  To make it easier on the grinder I drizzled in 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil (cold pressed of course) with a pinch of rough sea salt.  I pulsed till everything was very finely minced.  In fact, I scraped the sides down twice with a spatula and pulsed again to make certain nobody gets a  mouthful of onion or garlic in this dish - these will be subtle elements.  Note: If you don’t have a grinder or a cuisinart, use your chef knife and be patient till it all begins to approach a paste-like consistency.

Home made stock I made with my last blog entry's baked chicken

I’m going to use my own fresh stock (two jars worth) – you can also use boxed or canned, just go for the low salt, low fat chicken broth.  Pour them into a pot and cover till they begin to boil, then bring down to a simmer.  Add in your dry laurel.

I also want to peel and chop the carrots at this point.  As soon as they’re evenly sliced, I also throw them into the slowly simmering stock pot – I want to cook them just enough to still have some bite, not get mushy - NEVER mushy.  "Al Dente" means they give your teeth resistance and this is how you want your rice AND the veggies.

First I turn on the heat on the tall sided pot, splash a tablespoon of oil (e.v.o.o.) into the bottom and then throw in the onion/galic paste and stir with a wooden spoon till it’s all translucent.  Then, I add in my 16oz of pearl shaped Arborio rice and stir it till it’s all covered with the oil from the pan.  At this point, throw in the saffron too, the heat will activate it and make it very fragrant.  Also add in your nutmeg.  Spices always get activated in the heat.

Deglaze the pan with a ¼ cup of good white wine (I used last night's leftover pinot grigio).  Note: You should always cook with a wine you’d drink yourself.  Never use cooking wine.  If you don’t have wine on hand, a light white wine vinegar or rice vinegar can be used (1/8 cup water 1/8 cup vinegar) for this  – you want acid in the dish.  If you wish to skip it simply splash in a half ladle of your simmer stock (no carrots) into the pot to deglaze it... a few drops of lemon might do the trick.

From here on throw in two ladle-fulls of hot stock into your rice every few minutes.  Keep stirring occasionally.  Don’t allow the rice to go dry.  In other words, though this meal happens quickly, you can’t leave the kitchen while you make it or you’ll have burned rice porridge.  Add in a pinch of salt each time you add stock... this is how you layer in the flavor.

Don't forget to add in the porcini mushrooms - they'll add a lot of richness.

Keep stirring and adding stock till the stock is all used up and the rice is al dente.  Turn the heat off on your rice.  Now add in a pat of butter, any fresh herbs (I sliced up a sprig of oregano, basil can also be used at this point) and at most, a ¼ cup of grated parmesan and cover the pot.

Now, the vegetables can be stove top roasted in the dry pan over medium heat.

Allow your risotto to stand for 5 minutes.  Use the opportunity to set the table.

On Top Chef, Mr. Tom Collicchio always preaches that risotto should spread over the plate.  In fact, Italians don’t all agree on this.  I don’t want it to be dry, but I also don’t want it to be soupy.  It should be loose - relaxed.  If you add too much cheese – it will seize up on you and that’s bad.  If this happens to you, have some more hot stock on hand just in case, add in a ¼ cup at a time until you get it back to the consistency you like (I’m letting you be the final judge and arbiter on this point) before you serve.

Risotto from start to finish: 25 minutes.  I like my risotto moist, glossy and flavorful.  By adding the pan roasted veggies over the top, it becomes a deconstructed [and very modern presentation of] risotto primavera.  Only add a couple of turns on the parmesan cheese grater – it doesn’t need more.  BTW: I made enough for several friends and they’re almost here.  Enjoy this trip from my fond memories of my uncle’s kitchen to your table.  Let me know how yours came out and where you stand on the risotto debate (soupy or relaxed). 

NOTE: This risotto can be a whole meal in itself, or serve it in small portions as the first course.  If you’d like, follow it up with my last blog entry’s baked chicken, a green salad and finish it up with cake or strawberries.  That would be five-star dining, but it would take a bit more time to prepare.  Ciao!